Thursday, June 23, 2011

Glenwood Springs to Grand Junction, CO on US Route 6


Glenwood Springs to Grand Junction, CO
90 Miles



A spectacular day. Blue skies, puffs of clouds, 70’s.  This is what I’m talking about.  When I stood atop the Continental Divide on Loveland Pass, I was at the highest point on US Route 6 at roughly 12,000 feet above sea level.  Since then, I’ve been descending, which makes all the difference in air temps.  Frisco was at 9,000 feet, Glenwood Springs is 5,763. 

From the Red Mountain Inn, Route 6 continues West and does appear to keep going, even past the ramp onto I70W.  But I was told that Highway 6 is closed a few miles up the road, so I jumped onto the Interstate and got off again at Exit 105.  There’s no Route 6 sign at the exit (Colorado, HELL-O!), but as you as you get off, you’ll see the comforting number right away. 

Here, where Route 6 parallels I70, I began to see red clay mountains.  It was so cool to be driving slowly, on this “feeder” road, watching all trucks on 70 riding up the bumpers of smaller cars. 

Miner's Claim Restaurant
Silt, CO
I had planned to stop in the next town of Silt – it is what its name implies.  Silt looks like a typical old Western movie set; and in this case all the “actors” were still sleeping apparently.  The ghost-town-like Silt Historical Park behind a chain link fence opened only at Noon.  It was 10am, and I saw no evidence of life, so I drove back to Main St. to see if the heralded Miner’s Claim Restaurant was open.  Nope – opened for dinner at 5PM, though I did feel a bit sorry that I couldn’t experience a meal there.  It looked pretty funky.

I drove through the dusty town of Rifle (fortunately, did not see one firearm) before the road merged right back onto I70.  Then it was on to Parachute, where I next checked elevation; 5,000 ft.  Yep, I was parachuting down all right.

Noodle Bowl Dish
Red Rose Cafe, Palisade, CO
It was 40 miles of desolate, scrubbish, sandstone hills before I exited onto Route 6 and arrived in the wine country of Palisade, Colorado.  And what a relief that was!  Wine grapes growing at the base of the imposing Bookcliffs – a 200 mile long formation of eroded sandstone walls. 

I didn’t want to begin my afternoon of wine tasting on an empty stomach, and had heard about the Red Rose CafĂ© in Palisade, so I turned right off of Route 6 into a one-road downtown.  The Red Rose features an eclectic menu; Italian, American, and inexplicably, Vietnamese.  I soon learned that Rose is Vietnamese and she and her husband, Tom Casabona are chef/owners.  My Rice Bowl was excellent (of course, I had to order Vietnamese!), and I saved my wine appetite for the tasting rooms ahead.

Lavender Lady And Friends
Palisade, CO
There was an adorable women-owned co-op shop right next door; Lavender Lady & Friends, owned by Carol Mueller who is into lavender apparently.  I felt relaxed as soon as I came through the door and the scent wafted in my direction. Also for sale are wise-cracking sleep shirts, Wild Women Wines (what a great label), and lots of jewelry. 


Palisade, CO
Known for Peaches and Other Fruit
St. Katherine Winery Tasting Room
Palisade, CO
But wineries were calling my name.  I visited the six closest to Route 6 – all well-marked, and each a bit different from the next.  This is only bone-fide Wine Region I’ve encountered on Route 6.  I passed plenty of wineries since I left Provincetown, MA, but most are scattered here and there.  There are 19 all together in the small town of Palisade, CO.

Talon and St. Katherine are closest to I70, with bus-group-sized tasting rooms side by side.  Ever since the Carbone Family planted vines in the desert of Colorado in 1933, good wines have come out of this region.  Talon offers a more traditional, drier wine while St. Katherine is known for its sweeter fruit varieties. 

Meadery of the Rockies
 Palisade, CO
One of the most unusual “wines” I tasted was not a conventional wine at all, but a mead.  Instead of grapes, mead is created with honey, yeast and water – plus other ingredients - at The Meadery of the Rockies.  I tried the “Apricots and Honey” vintage – a sweet but not cloying drink of fruit, and then the Chocolate Cherry Satin – one of the best sellers.  It was like sipping a Cherry Cordial. 

The tasting room at Plum Creek was one of the most attractive in the area; like the interior of a expensive chateaux.  Plum Creek has won awards for its Meritage, Rose and Rieslings.

Plum Creek Winery Tasting Room
Palisade, CO

Maison La Belle Vie Winery
Palisade, CO

Maison La Belle Vie Winery
Palisade, CO
Next up was one of the newest on the “tour” – a little slice of France in the Western US; Maison La Belle Vie Winery. The tasting room looks more like a bistro, and there’s a cute flower-pot rimmed patio.  This vineyard turns out unique Peach Ice Wine, everyday reds, and Port aged in walnut.  I loved the house Syrah, and ended up having some later for dinner.  More on that later.

Garfield Estates converted haybarn
Tasting room, Palisade, CO
Garfield Estates grows grapes on a former alfalfa farm and allows guests to taste award-winning Fume Blanc, Cabernet Franc and Port in a renovated hay barn. 

Graystone Vineyards Tasting Room
Palisade, CO
The last vineyard I hit before zooming towards Grand Junction was the Port-only Graystone Vineyards. Graystone’s Port III (2003 grapes) flies out the stately door.  I tried the sweet after-dinner drink with bites of bittersweet chocolate.  A perfect marriage of tastes.

I didn’t have to get back onto I70 to get to my next stop: Grand Junction.  Route 6 crosses I70 into Clifton, then tags along with 70Bus through a commercial, big box strip (Hooters, Texas Roadhouse and the like) on the approach into town.  Fortunately, Main Street is far more aesthetic and charming than the highway, and also fortunately, that’s where I chose to eat and to stay the night.
Kids At Water Play on Main St.
Grand Junction, CO

Art on Main St.
Grand Junction, CO
Before dinner, I took a stroll on the lovely, sculpture-studded, tree-lined nearly pedestrian mall-like downtown.  Recently, the city added a kid’s splash fountain right on the sidewalk – an apparent hit with tykes and parents. The street is so attractive, even the drainage grates embedded in the sidewalk were made of pretty filigreed wrought iron.

Drainage Grate Embedded in Sidewalk
Grand Junction, CO

Le Rouge Restaurant
Grand Junction, CO
EAT: There are several very good restaurants in Grand Junction and I ate at two of them.  The first was La Rouge, owned by John Barbier, who also owns Maison Le Belle Vie Winery.  This restaurant offers  Foie Gras and Bouillabaisse along with foods of other lands (my linguini with vegies was wonderful) in a small white linen tablecloth art-lined room.  And service is wonderful - Thanks, Casey!

Bin 707 Foodbar
Grand Junction, CO

Watermelon-Gazpacho Soup
Bin 707 Foodbar
Grand Junction, CO
Perfect Skinny Fries
Bin 707 Foodbar
Grand Junction, CO
Bin 707 Foodbar is a contemporary NY-Style bistro with a Western twist; perfect for foodies like me.  They dish out terrific skinny seasoned fries (wow), and I had a seasonal "Watermelon-Gazpacho" cold soup.  Spicy and refreshing at the same time.  Marvelous.  This is a relatively new restaurant in town and I wish them many years of success. With this kind of inventive cuisine, pulled off extremely well, they should thrive for a long time. 

"Managers Wine and Cheese Reception Area"
Main Street Suites
Grand Junction, CO
Main Street Suites
Grand Junction, CO
Stay: Main Street Suites; My very spacious room was clearly updated with striking granite counters in the bathroom, a contemporary tiled two-person shower, leather seating and small kitchenette.  Free Wi-Fi, a nice 2-drink complimentary "Manager's Wine and Bites Reception" from 5pm-7pm, complimentary hot breakfast, indoor and outdoor pool – great amenities.  But the best feature is that Main St. Suites is on ……Main St., which puts you right in the center of the shopping, browsing, restaurant action.  Main Street Suites is also affiliated with the Hampton Inn next door and Spring Hill Suites across the street.  I was very happy here.

1 comment:

  1. Nice article.

    If you left the camera looking out the passenger (or driver) side of the car, rather than out the front window, there would be more scenery and less road in the shot.

    ReplyDelete

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