Tuesday, June 14, 2011

Lincoln, Nebraska - a Capital Idea on US Route 6


Awesome Paula Ray
Lincoln, NE
Lincoln, NE has a population of 250,000 but feels much smaller, probably due to the lack of skyscrapers in deference to the rule that no building can be taller than the State Capitol. But for a relatively small city, Lincoln has some cool attractions that piqued my interest, some with a rather high Wow factor.

State Capitol Building
Lincoln, NE
It’s also home to a friend of a friend, Paula Ray, who, despite hailing originally from Connecticut, did the bend-over-backwards-with-kindness Nebraska thing and hosted a small dinner party in my honor.  Paula’s daughter, Deb Arenz, works for the State Historical Association, and so Paula felt it would be a nice thing to cook up a storm and invite Deb and several of her colleagues to fill me in on Route 6 ties to Lincoln.  More on that later, but I just want to take this public opportunity to thank Paula and her very soon to be husband, Bob Hall for a delicious, informative and highly entertaining evening.


Now – for my impressions of Lincoln and don’t miss recommendations for visitors;


State Capitol Building
Lincoln, NE
State Capitol Building
Lincoln, NE
State Capitol Building
Lincoln, NE
The Nebraska State Capitol Building; you cannot leave Lincoln without a tour of this incredible Beaux-Arts/Art Deco architectural wonder.  Externally, the building is imposing – positioned as the city’s center stage. Inside, it’s a study in mosaic masterpieces; from the two-toned floors (depicting and including local fossils) to the spectacular, abstract multihued domes and walls.  Designed by a New York architectural firm and a Nebraska resident (to interpret the State for the clueless Easterners), it took from 1922 – 1932 to complete.  The center rotunda is 400 feet high, and a small elevator leads to the 14th floor observation deck.  This isn’t on the usual tour, but you can just go up.  My terrific student-tourguide, Jamison Wyatt, let me know that Nebraska is the only Unicameral State – it has only one house Legislature.  With no declared Democrats and Republicans going at war with each other (candidates run on merit alone), no wonder Nebraska seems like such a friendly place!

Haymarket Square
Lincoln, NE
Historic Haymarket is Lincoln’s version of Omaha’s Old Market – but smaller.  Walk on cobblestone streets to enjoy a concentrated selection of decent restaurants and shops, and yes, even a Gastropub – the Brix & Stone – which features an enigmatic dish called Chicken and Waffle.  A city Arena is slated to open across the street in 2013 which will ramp up the crowds here exponentially. 

Record your Quilt Story
International Quilt Study Center and Museum
Lincoln, NE


International Quilt Study Center and Museum
Lincoln, NE
International Quilt Study Center and Museum
Lincoln, NE
International Quilt Study Center and Museum; put everything you thought you knew about the quaint, country art of quilting aside.  The once homespun handicraft has risen to the level of academic study. With 3,500 quilts from nearly 30 countries, this fantastic museum and study center conducts genealogical and sociological research on antique quilts, and exhibits these intricate and amazing creations on a rotating basis. The new LEED contemporary building was designed to represent pieces of a quilt and it showcases these artifacts in the best possible manner.  There’s an interactive room where you can record your own quilt story, and upstairs a soaring, temperature-controlled gallery where some of the oldest and best quilts the world has to offer are on display.  Famous quilter, Grace Snyder used 80,000 pieces in one of her creations, and the museum has one of her works on display.  “Quilts are so personal, so intimate, and a wonderful way to put a piece of yourself into a functional work of art to give to others,” said museum staff member Maureen Ose.  A must-see even for non-quilters (like me) who will gain appreciation for the craft here.

This is where all US Tractors are tested.
Lincoln, NE

Tractor Test Site
Lincoln, NE
Lester F. Larson Tractor Test Museum; Did you know that the pulling, lifting and twisting power of each tractor model in the world must go through rigorous and thorough testing?  And guess where it’s officially done??  I had no idea that there was even such a need, let alone a place to perform this service, but now I do.  In the early 1900’s, a slew of new tractor inventors made many false claims, others committed forgery by slapping the name of an established tractor company on their machines. A farmer had only three weeks to plant crops and if his tractor failed to operate correctly, he could loose his income for the year. In 1919 the Tractor Test law was passed and in 1920, a John Deere Waterloo Boy was the first to go through its paces.  You learn all about this, see the very unassuming paved test track, and some antique tractors.  Right now, West Africa is looking at this testing facility, hoping to replicate it there.
Sunken Gardens
Lincoln, NE

Sunken Gardens; Even in half-bloom, these stepped gardens are marvelous to see.  Small and smile-inducing.

Route 6 Mural
Shoemaker Travel Center
Lincoln, NE
Shoemaker’s Travel Center; This is a bit west of Lincoln on Route 6, but ALL Route 6 travelers MUST visit.  Yes, it’s a Truck Stop, with one special feature.  Look up in the center room to see the ONLY coast-to-coast US Route 6 four-wall mural in existence.  It is a phenomenal rendering of all the Route 6 hotspots across the country – starting in Massachusetts and ending in California. I can’t tout this attraction strongly enough.  Just go with cameras ready!

Route 6 Mural
Shoemaker Travel Center
Lincoln, NE

Route 6 Mural
Shoemaker Travel Center
Lincoln, NE

Route 6 Mural
Shoemaker Travel Center
Lincoln, NE

Route 6 Mural
Shoemaker Travel Center
Lincoln, NE

EAT: Runza.  This is a local dish – a stuffed meat and melted cheese sandwich – beloved by many Nebraskans.  Karen Shoemaker (of Truck-Stop and Novel-Writing fame) told me that there are groups of Lincoln women in New York who routinely have Runza sandwiches Fed-Ex’d to them.  Would I mail order a Runza?  I’m not sure.  But it was awfully good.

Deb Arenz, Bob Puschendorf,
Cody Arenz and Bob Hall
Lincoln, NE

As I wrote above, I had dinner with Paula Ray, Bob Hall, Deb Arenz, her husband Cody, and three other Nebraska State Historical Society staffers; Laura and Tom Mooney and Bob Puschendorf.  I learned all about the precursor to Route 6 – the OLD (Omaha-Lincoln-Denver Road) and then DLD (Detroit added in there), which, in 1911, was promoted as “a good dirt road.” By the time Route 6 appropriated the road, in the early 1930’s paving was underway, thank goodness.  Since I didn’t have dinner in town, I took a poll and got some good restaurant recommendations: Dish, Venue, The Oven, Buzzard Billy’s.  There are plenty more, but this is a start.

A Waiting Treat at The Atwood House
Lincoln, NE


The Atwood House
Lincoln, NE
Part of a Guest Suite
Atwood House
Lincoln, NE



Larry and Ruth Stoll
Atwood House
Lincoln, NE


Breakfast at Atwood House
Lincoln, NE
STAY: Atwood House.  Crystal chandeliers over beds, beautifully appointed suites larger than some NYC apartments, fresh-baked goods round the clock, complimentary popcorn and candy for movie-viewing, every whim anticipated – I was sad I couldn’t stay longer in this Neoclassical-Georgian Mansion.  Bedding is regal and plush, there was a claw-food tub as well as a glass shower in my private bath, and pre-gourmet breakfast coffee is brought upstairs at 7am.  That’s the ultimate in luxury!  Java that comes to me! In the morning, Larry creates cut-pineapple art, a decadently delicate muffin (rhubarb today, straight from their “patch”), and savory dish – this morning a heart-shaped “Egg Cordon Bleu.”  With only four guest suites, Larry and Ruth Stoll coddle their guests (White chocolate-dipped strawberries awaited me!) and seem happy to do so.  A very special place.


1 comment:

  1. Thank you for your great comments about our travel center, Malerie! We're pretty proud of it so we were delighted that you had a chance to stop in. We really enjoyed reading about all the places you stopped on your trip. Let us know when the book of your travels is published! We'll feature it in the travel store.

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